Deconstructing pesto
Posted by Sarah LemonEvery gardener out there is no doubt cheering on warmer weather. In our family, summer means lots and lots of home-grown basil for my mother-in-law’s ratatouille, bruschetta topping and her essential pesto.
We could, of course, purchase bunches of basil during the cold season. However, that’s hardly as economical as growing our own, and the resulting pesto just doesn’t taste the same.
Better to experiment with different herbs this time of year. I’ve heard numerous references to replacing a traditional pesto’s basil with parsley or even substituting walnuts for the pine nuts.
But running across an interesting recipe for Pumpkin Seed Pesto this past week, I started deconstructing the idea of this pasta topping. It is, after all, merely a combination of nuts or seeds, an herb of some sort, acid (generally citric), oil, spices and cheese, if you like.
Experimenting at home with Thai flavors, my husband and I topped peanut-crusted sea scallops with a peanut, cilantro and ginger pesto. The preparation was simple: In a food processor, pulse some roasted, shelled peanuts until finely ground; add one bunch cilantro (stems removed); 1 teaspoon of jarred, minced ginger; juice of two limes; and a little salt and pepper. While that’s blending, stream in some oil. We used rice bran oil but peanut would have been nice if we’d had it on hand. In keeping with the Asian concept, we omitted cheese.
Mint would go just fine, too. Try it for yourself or the following recipe for Pumpkin Seed Pesto courtesy of The Associated Press features staff.
Pumpkin Seed Pesto Pasta
12 ounces whole-wheat pasta spirals
1 cup raw pumpkin seeds
3 ounces (about 3 loosely packed cups) fresh cilantro, stems trimmed
4-ounce piece of Parmesan cheese (or about 1 cup grated), cut into small pieces
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 to 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Bring a large saucepan of lightly salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook according to package directions.
Meanwhile, place the pumpkin seeds in a small skillet over medium heat. Toast the seeds, stirring frequently, until they are lightly browned and puffed up, about 2 to 3 minutes.
Transfer the seeds to a food processor. Add the cilantro, cheese, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Pulse until all ingredients are finely ground. Then, with the processor on, drizzle in olive oil until desired consistency is reached. Set aside.
Drain the pasta and transfer to a large serving bowl. Add the pesto and toss well to coat. The heat of the pasta will melt the cheese and the pesto will coat the pasta. Adjust salt and pepper as needed.
Makes 4 servings.
NOTE: To keep with the Hispanic theme, consider replacing the Parmesan cheese with manchego, a nutty, creamy Spanish cheese.
